Much has been written about the Spice Islands and the sailors that spent many centuries at sea trading exotic commodities. There were fierce battles, pirates, tough conditions and ongoing power plays. In its day it was the world’s biggest industry, and this part of history shaped the future of many nations around the globe. As such I have come prepared for a serious adventure on the high seas: I have left the suede loafers behind, have starched my collection of nautical linens, and packed only a handful of accessories! Ahoy sailor!
I am spending 10 days aboard a traditionally designed yacht named Tiger Blue. The plan is to sail along the north coast of the island of Flores exploring remote and still very undeveloped parts of Eastern Indonesia. I have been mentally preparing for this trip for a few weeks, channeling the courage and strength of the explorers that have come before me. I am ready for challenges that we will face. It may get tough.
On arrival in Labuan Bajo it starts… my bag has not made it, and all I have is the single linen shirt on my back! While I worry about how I might survive, one must not dwell and I push on. Upon boarding the ship I am faced with a suite of other challenges - do I prefer to be greeted with a hot or cold towel? Fresh juice or cold water? Indonesian or western food for lunch? The challenges just keep coming… I am immediately thankful for all my mental preparation.
Tiger Blue is beautiful, and its traditional all wooden design has stood the test of time. As we don't need to transport spices on this journey she has been redesigned to allow for more of the essentials - sun lounges, dive equipment, 5 ensuite guest cabins, and a fully equipped galley (and bar!). Clearly all of our needs have been taken into account to ensure a ship full of happy sailors.
I meet my fellow travellers, a mix of singles and couples from around the globe. Gone are the Spice War tensions and together we explore as a league of nations. It is clear we have come together for the same reason - to experience the non commercialised and naturally pristine side of Indonesia. Our local crew far outnumbers guests and come from various parts of country, some of whom have been on the sea for many years. We are on this journey this together.
From day one I am in shock and I start to question the quality of my preparation. I am caught off guard by the beauty of this part of the world. I do not worry for long as the crystal clear turquoise water has me memorised. As I jump in for my first swim I am transported into a world under the sea filled with countless fish and some of the most stunning coral reefs I have ever seen. My charismatic guide Rizal has my back while I ‘lose myself’ in this underwater world. He continuously draws my attention to things I should keep an eye on, from turtles and wild lobster hiding under rocks, to tropical sea snakes. I feel more at ease knowing there is such strong local knowledge onboard.
The Komodo National Park is a protected area where we spend the first few days. Bonding is going to be vital to a successful journey, so together we participate in a few group activities to strengthen our ‘team’. Almost every night the crew cleverly drops us all on isolated sand atolls around sunset. With the help of a gin and tonic we reflect on the challenges we faces that day - from the prehistoric looking Komodo dragons that we discovered on the islands, to avoiding collisions with dozens of giant manta rays while we swam with in the tropical waters. We can’t decide what has been the most impressive, but it is clear this is smart planning and we are thankful for a good crew supporting us on this exploration.
I had thought that the days and nights at sea would be long, but they just fly by. We are on a Journey of Discovery departure meaning the ship is relocating from one region to another, so there is quite a distance to cover some days. As we travel along the coast we make stops at different towns and villages, and undertake various activities on terra firma. We climb a dormant volcano to see it’s colourful crater laters, dance along side traditional hill tribes that haven't been commercialised by mass tourism, and get a real taste of modern day life on the undeveloped island that is Flores. We return to our home Tiger Blue each day with time and an opportunity to reflect and absorb what we have experienced - something we all start to value as we continue to explore. I feel privileged to have been to these remote places and had these experiences. I am certain I couldn't have done it alone.
Day seven is an important one, and we have been working up to it for a while conserving energy and taking relaxing naps on the deck when we can. Tonight we are sailing 12 hours North East out to Pulau Komba, a volcanic island jutting out of the sea in total insolation. We arrive at midnight having pushed through the three course dinner, a few bottles of wine and subsequent sleepiness to watch Batu Tara spurt glowing lava into the night sky under a full moon. With each eruption she lets out the most amazing rumble that makes even the hardest sea dog tremble. By 2am we decide its time to head back towards shore. I drift off to sleep on the top deck watching the volcano continue to erupt as she disappears onto the horizon. I wake in the morning in yet another idyllic tropical location and question whether it was just a surreal dream. The reality is we are in a cycle of discovering new tropical wonders every day.
Our remaining days of the journey are spent at sea and on land, continuing to enjoy pristine marine environments and exploring island life. It is incredibly strenuous activity and we all work up an appetite easily. The hardships of a life at sea can’t be underestimated. The risk of malnutrition and scurvy have been taken into account and we are filled to the brim with wonderful food prepared by the crew. My ongoing requests for spicy Indonesian food have also been heard, and at times I begin to regret asking for ‘local spicy’ although I just can’t stop eating it. The freshly baked cakes for afternoon tea help keep spirits high later in the day. I can’t believe that such food is being turned out of a small kitchen, on a boat, in remotes parts of Indonesia. I get the feeling the chef’s preparation and planning might be better than mine.
As we near the end of our time onboard I have come to the realisation that the spice islands are having a significant impact on me. Exploring this foreign and unfamiliar land has moved me. Our Journey of Discovery has taken me to the most amazing places, and given me the opportunity to do some incredibly special things. I have met interesting people and shared stories with my fellow travellers and crew. I am not sure we would have developed the same dynamic if we weren’t on a boat for 10 days.
I think about the explorers and traders who fought fiercely for centuries. I come to the conclusion that it couldn't have just been about the spices, but also the fact they had discovered a very special paradise. I have fallen in love with Flores, and have no doubt they did too.
