I set out on a journey to discover the best of what Indonesia has to offer, and I’m pretty sure i’ve found it! I am on the Island of Sumba, and have just spent the last hour and a half trekking my way through one of its many jungles. I stand looking at a scene worthy of a postcard. A towering waterfall overlooks pristine aqua pools. A gourmet picnic is laid out perfectly on a bamboo deck at the waters edge. There is someone waiting to offer me an ice cold drink, and we are the only people here. I need someone to pinch me so I know its all real.
I have seen a lot on my adventure to date, and loved almost every moment in Indonesia but it doesn't take long to realise there is something very special about Sumba. Although less than an hours flight from Bali it is wild and less developed than many of its neighbouring islands… and to my delight well off the tourist trail. As a result the island maintains a very traditional way of life, one where it's perfectly normal to offer 2 pigs, 1 buffalo, and 10 chickens in exchange for your son's hand in marriage. The island is also big, with a variety of landscapes that are relatively undeveloped so quite hard to travel around.
I am staying at the incredibly chic resort of Nihiwatu on the South West coast, and it's love at first sight. As I am shown to my room I don’t know where to look… the antique Ikat fabrics hanging on the wall, the infinity swimming pool in my villa, or out to powerful surf crashing on the beach below. I turn to Carla the wonderful General Manager for guidance as to what to explore first. While a spa treatment sounds lovely, as do the marine based activities, it’s decided I am off on one of the many treks on offer… and I couldn't think of a better way to kick it all off.
My guide Maxi greets me with a huge smile as we jump into the open air safari jeep for my first adventure. By the time we arrive at the start of our trek Maxi has already showed me the home where he and his 10 siblings were raised, explained the traditional Marapu way of life, given me a run down on his family history, a market update on prices of rice, pigs and corn, and asked as many questions of me as I have of him. This is a wonderfully exciting cultural exchange. I also learn and see for myself that there is absolutely nothing else around Nihiwatu except for traditional local villages and surrounding agricultural lands. By the end of my first afternoon it is clear that this is more than just a stay at a lush resort, it is total Sumba emersion.
Over the coming days Maxi and I talk for hours on end as we explore villages, rice paddies, dirt tracks, wild rainforests and remote beaches. He is a real character and is utterly passionate about sharing his story and island with Nihiwatu guests, “everyday I so happy”. There is nothing scripted or contrived about these experiences, they are real and wild and really bring Sumba to life. Each day I experience something new that is so special that I feel privileged to be here.
While guests originally came to Nihiwatu to be one of just 10 people to ride the private surf break (still the part of the experience), they now also come to experience the magic of Sumba. While I am at the resort I learn that almost everyone in-house has extended their stay (myself included, but shy of the 8 week record set by one guest), and 70% of all past guests return. It would appear I am not the only one moved by this wonderful place.
The property is divided into several estates comprised of up to five individual villas. The villas are simply stunning, with interiors reminiscent of chic tropical beach houses. Each estate has a slightly different style but all incorporate Sumbanese design elements from intricately carved four poster beds to decorative tribal headpieces. The attention to detail is as impressive as the surrounds. From my outdoor shower I look directly out to the surf below and along the pristine coastline… its mind boggling to think a place like this can exist in such a remote location.
The vast majority of the 300 staff come from the surrounding areas, and add a real sense of personality to my stay. While extremely luxurious, the resort doesn't try to be stuffy and guests naturally mingle at pre-dinner drinks, and get together alongside the staff twice a week for ‘party nights’ as has been the case since its inception. The friendliness of the staff is contagious, and I get to learn that Sumbanese have not only a great sense of humour but really impressive dance skills. Everything about this place seems to add to my experience.
I come to appreciate that Nihiwatu is so much more than a luxe resort in the middle of nowhere, but rather it’s a property with a real purpose. The new owners, American venture capitalist Chris Burch and esteemed hotelier James McBride, have created a socially responsible luxury resort. Nihiwatu was in fact built in the 80s by two die hard surfers in search of the perfect wave, but in the last three years it has undergone a radical transformation under the direction of its new owners and has morphed into what it is today. The overall standard and service has been lifted, capacity expanded, while still maintaining the unique culture and atmosphere that has brought people back again and again.
Sumba is a very poor island and its people face a plague of challenges from malnutrition, to contaminated drinking water, malaria and a lack of education. It is for these reasons that the Sumba Foundation was established to improve the standard of life of the Sumbanese, while Nihiwatu is designed to be the philanthropic vehicle that drives funds directly into the foundation.
It is very easy to see that this setup has made a very real difference to the local community. All of the locals I talk to give meaningful personal anecdotes, and while it feels a tad awkward, dozens of people shout “thank you” everyday day as we are out exploring. Learning about the challenges faced by the local community and the work of the foundation is central to any stay at Nihiwatu. My fellow guests and I develop a deep admiration for the work they are doing.
While I loved every minute I was on Sumba, it is only once I left that I come to truly value my experience. My stay at Nihiwatu was educational, enriching, and incredibly moving and is the type of place you just don't want to leave. While the resort is impressive in its own right, it is the the local people and communities that have the greatest impact. I feel privileged to have had this experience, am thankful for the access I have been given, and am absolutely determined to return to the edge of wildness.